Bob Gaines, Director |
BOB GAINES is the Director of Vertical Adventures Rock Climbing School, which he founded in 1983. Bob is an AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Certified Rock Instructor (since 1995). He is an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program Provider and teaches the AMGA SPI Course at Joshua Tree National Park. He is also an examiner for the AMGA SPI Exam. Bob is the co-author of Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual, which is the textbook for the AMGA's Single Pitch Instructor program. Bob is the author of the rock climbing instructional textbooks Toproping, Rappelling, and Advanced Rock Climbing. He is one of the country's leading experts on rock climbing anchors, and the co-author of Climbing Anchors and Climbing Anchors Field Guide.
Bob's latest rock climbing guidebooks are Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks and Best Climbs Joshua Tree National Park.
El Cap is probably the most recognized chunk of rock in the world to rock climbers. Climbers come from across the globe to challenge themselves on the 3000 foot walls of El Capitan. It's an awe-inspiring thing that first time you go to the Valley and stand at the base of El Cap, looking up. So much rock, so little time.
Bob began rock climbing at Joshua Tree in the 1970's. Since then he has pioneered over 500 new routes at Joshua Tree National Park, and over 130 first ascents at Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, Idyllwild. A former member of Yosemite's search and rescue team, Bob is a veteran of Yosemite's big walls, with 5 ascents of El Capitan to his credit.
Since 1985 Bob has worked extensively training a diverse group of military special forces, including Marines Special Operations Training Group Instructors and the elite SEAL Team 6.
Bob has worked as a climbing stunt coordinator or rigging coordinator on over 40 television commercials. He doubled for Capt. Kirk in Star Trek V (when Capt. Kirk attempts to free solo El Capitan) and was Sylvester Stallone's climbing instructor for the movie Cliffhanger, in addition to his job as Chief Safety Officer for the cast and crew of Cliffhanger during filming on location in the Italian Dolomites.
El Capitan, mountain in Yosemite National Park, east-central California. One of the park’s most notable landmarks, the granite monolith features nearly vertical walls and towers some 3,600 feet over the western end of Yosemite Valley. Popular with climbers, it was first summited in 1958. Learn more about El Capitan. A Beginner’s Guide to Rock Climbing in Colorado. From climbing terms to the newbie-friendly crags, we've got you covered with this introductory guide to Centennial State stone. By Kasey Cordell. 5280 May 2019 The Basics. There’s a reason Colorado produces some of the best climbers in the country (a quarter of the national team is from here). Jun 10, 2018 17 of 17 In this June 3, 2018 photo provided by Corey Rich, Alex Honnold, top and Tommy Caldwell climb The Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, Calif. Days after two of the world's most.
Travel and Leisure magazine, in their 'Great Places to Climb' feature article, rated Bob Gaines as 'top guide' for Joshua Tree National Park.
El Capitan viewed from Cathedral Spires. |
Yosemite Big Wall Climbing Info
Yosemite is big wall paradise. The walls are enormous, the rock solid, and the weather ideal. Below I have offered a primer to help you plan a Yosemite big wall adventure. I have also included some personal tips and techniques and the gear I am currently using. Enjoy!
Yosemite is big wall paradise. The walls are enormous, the rock solid, and the weather ideal. Below I have offered a primer to help you plan a Yosemite big wall adventure. I have also included some personal tips and techniques and the gear I am currently using. Enjoy!
— Chris McNamara
P.S. email me if you have any beta that should be added to this page
Yosemite Big Wall Skills
Yosemite offers short practice aid routes, 3000-foot A5 nightmares, and everything in between. No matter what you plan to climb, you will need basic free climbing and aid climbing skills before you arrive in the Valley. Train in both a climbing gym and your local crag and read our How To Big Wall Climb Book. Consider purchasing Road to The Nose, a guidebook that offers advice on training for Yosemite big walls and also includes numerous topos for moderate routes. For a more complete selection of big wall routes, check out Yosemite Big Wall SuperTopos.
Yosemite offers short practice aid routes, 3000-foot A5 nightmares, and everything in between. No matter what you plan to climb, you will need basic free climbing and aid climbing skills before you arrive in the Valley. Train in both a climbing gym and your local crag and read our How To Big Wall Climb Book. Consider purchasing Road to The Nose, a guidebook that offers advice on training for Yosemite big walls and also includes numerous topos for moderate routes. For a more complete selection of big wall routes, check out Yosemite Big Wall SuperTopos.
Good Practice Aid Climbs
Here are some El Capitan base routes to hone your aid skills and get you familiar with Yosemite granite. All these climbs are included in the Road to The Nose guidebook. Also, here are some Southern California practice areas
Here are some El Capitan base routes to hone your aid skills and get you familiar with Yosemite granite. All these climbs are included in the Road to The Nose guidebook. Also, here are some Southern California practice areas
Route | Pitches | Source |
Pacific Ocean Wall Base | C1 | The Pacific Ocean Wall is an intimidating climb with a very moderate first pitch. This is a great first aid climbing lead. |
North America Wall Base | 1 | This pitch offers sustained nut and small cam placements with a few 'aid boulder problems' below the anchor. |
C2 5.7 | This wandering and adventurous climb leads to El Cap Tree, an 80-foot ponderosa, the only major tree on El Capitan. | |
Dihedral Wall Base | 2 | These two pitches ascend the lower portion of an enormous 600-foot dihedral. They are sustained and involve some tricky placements. |
La Escuela | C1 | A great first aid lead. Some of the placements are a little awkward but they are generally secure. |
Good First Big Wall Climbs in Yosemite
Below are five moderate Yosemite big walls. None of these climbs is easy and you will need to have your aid skills wired before attempting one. Most of these climbs are included in the Road to The Nose guidebook.
Below are five moderate Yosemite big walls. None of these climbs is easy and you will need to have your aid skills wired before attempting one. Most of these climbs are included in the Road to The Nose guidebook.
Rating | Pitches | Description |
Washington Column, South Face | 10 | A popular first wall. This climb is probably the easiest Grade V wall and is usually crowded. |
Leaning Tower, West Face | C2F 5.7 | Probably Yosemite's shortest Grade V wall but also the most overhanging. Most of the crux sections have fixed gear and there are many bolt ladders. |
12 | A steep and popular route. While most crux sections are fixed, the exposure and thin crack systems make this climb challenging both mentally and physically. | |
Lost Arrow Spire Tip | C2 5.7 | A true Yosemite classic climb. While only two pitches long, the exposure will make you feel like you're halfway up El Capitan. |
Skull Queen | 13 | A more difficult and less crowded variation to the South Face. |
Brief ad break: please help support this site by checking out the Yosemite Big Walls guidebook. There is a free sample download here
View the Index and Introduction |
View a list of new routes since the Second Edition and read the Preface about What's New? |
Good Long and Moderate Big Wall Climbs
After climbing a few shorter big wall routes, you may be ready to tackle the biggies: Half Dome and El Capitan. Listed below are some of the most classic Grade VI big walls in Yosemite. Take a look at the list of climbs to develop a good tick list of great Yosemite climbing routes. Check out our list of Yosemite's 40+ best big wall climbs
After climbing a few shorter big wall routes, you may be ready to tackle the biggies: Half Dome and El Capitan. Listed below are some of the most classic Grade VI big walls in Yosemite. Take a look at the list of climbs to develop a good tick list of great Yosemite climbing routes. Check out our list of Yosemite's 40+ best big wall climbs
Route | Pitches | Source |
Half Dome, Northwest Face | C1 5.9 | My (Chris McNamara's) favorite route. Loads of quality free climbing in a spectacular location. Most of this route can be climbed at 5.9 or easier. |
The Nose | 31 | Considered by many to best rock climb in the world. Period. |
C2 5.9 | Almost as classic and slightly harder than the The Nose. Many memorable pitches and ledges. | |
Lurking Fear | 19 | One of the more moderate and shorter routes on El Capitan. The first half requires mostly aid climbing and the second half requires mostly free climbing. |
Zodiac | A2 5.7 | The most moderate route on El Capitan's overhanging southeast face. Spectacular exposure and easy hauling. |
Climbing Safety
More than 100 climbing accidents occur every year in Yosemite. The two documents below include some helpful information to help you avoid an accident.
More than 100 climbing accidents occur every year in Yosemite. The two documents below include some helpful information to help you avoid an accident.
El Capitan Climbing For Beginners Free
Staying Alive by John Dill, Yosemite Search and Rescue |
Two Climbing Accident Summaries by Tyson Hausdoerffer |
Climbing Ethics
The document below contains a number of tips that all big wall climbers should adhere to in order to keep Yosemite the climbing paradise it is today. Also, here is a great thread on making a poop tube or big wall waste system and a discussion on big wall passing ethics.
The document below contains a number of tips that all big wall climbers should adhere to in order to keep Yosemite the climbing paradise it is today. Also, here is a great thread on making a poop tube or big wall waste system and a discussion on big wall passing ethics.
View Low Impact Climbing in Vertical Wilderness andTaking Care of the Big Stone by Jesse McGahee, Climbing Ranger, and Steve Grossman |
Favorite Big Wall Links
OutdoorGearLab Big Wall Gear Reviews
Live El Cap and Half Dome Cams
Yosemite Climber's Information
National Park Service's Climbing Page
OutdoorGearLab Big Wall Gear Reviews
Live El Cap and Half Dome Cams
Yosemite Climber's Information
National Park Service's Climbing Page
Chris McNamara's Aid Rack
Here are the two aid racks I use most often on Yosemite big walls (Here is the big wall gear list with links). I have also included a checklist of what to bring on multi-day walls. I did not include a rack for a sample A4 nailing route because nailing racks vary wildly depending on the route. Keep in mind that everyone prefers different gear and my rack not necessarily the best rack for you. Also, I tend to go light and you will probably carry more cams, nuts, pitons, etc. Here is a detailed description of basic wall gear and protection or a description of haul bags, portaledges, and bivy gear
Here are the two aid racks I use most often on Yosemite big walls (Here is the big wall gear list with links). I have also included a checklist of what to bring on multi-day walls. I did not include a rack for a sample A4 nailing route because nailing racks vary wildly depending on the route. Keep in mind that everyone prefers different gear and my rack not necessarily the best rack for you. Also, I tend to go light and you will probably carry more cams, nuts, pitons, etc. Here is a detailed description of basic wall gear and protection or a description of haul bags, portaledges, and bivy gear
Rack for all clean routes (Example: The Nose) | Rack for mostly clean routes (Example: Zodiac) | Misc. gear for multi-day walls: |
1 ea DMM Offset Nuts 1 set DMM Peenuts 1 set DMM Brass Offsets #2-3, 2 ea #4-6 2 ea cam hooks (narrow) 2 sets of Black Diamond X4's to #5 or Aliens 1-2 sets of Black Diamond Offset X4's to #5 2 sets of Black Diamond Camalots #0.5-3 1 each of Camalots #4 and #5 1 medium Black Diamond Pecker (optional) 1 60m x 10.2mm climbing rope 1 60m x 8mm or 9mm static haul line Petzl Micro Traxion or Pro Traxion Ascenders Light aiders 1 Daisy chain Fifi hook 10 light quickdraws 50 light carabiners 10 light Dyneema slings Harness Gri Gri Approach shoes Climbing shoes Helmet | ALL CLEAN ROUTE RACK PLUS: 1 Cliffhanger 1 Talon 1 Grappling hook 2 ea of mid-sized cam hooks 4 keyhole hangers 4 wire rivet hangers Hammer 5 copperheads (#2-3) 1 ea Moses Tomahawk 1-2 ea Black Diamond Pecker (med, lrg) 1 Knifeblade 3 Lost Arrow pitons (#1-3) 2 baby Angles (1/2”, 5/8”) 2 sawed angles (3/4”, 1”) 2 Metolius daisy chains 2 ea Yates Big Wall Ladder Yates Big Wall Rack tie-off loops Comfy wall harness | Light Portaledge Metolius Dome Haul Bag Metolius Quarter Dome Haul Bag 3/4 lengthfoam sleeping pad Synthetic sleeping bag Bivy sac (if expecting bad weather) Metolius Big Wall Stuff Sacks Metolius Waste Case or homemade poop tube Wag Bags Wet One's wipes Headlamp Mtn biking gloves or Metolius belay gloves Rain jacket Warmer belay jacket knife wide-brimmed cloth sun hat duct tape portable solar panel cell phone Stove |
El Capitan Rock Climbing Routes
Anchor Conditions
Since 1997 the American Safe Climbing Association has replaced more than 800 bolts in Yosemite. Some anchor information is available for certain climbs on the route beta pages. For the most up-to-date information on each route’s anchors conditions, visit the ASCA web site.
Since 1997 the American Safe Climbing Association has replaced more than 800 bolts in Yosemite. Some anchor information is available for certain climbs on the route beta pages. For the most up-to-date information on each route’s anchors conditions, visit the ASCA web site.